Squirrel traps fall into two main categories: live cage traps that capture the animal unharmed and lethal traps designed to kill on contact. The right choice depends on your situation, local laws, and whether squirrels are raiding your bird feeder or nesting in your attic. Either way, a trap only works if you pair it with the right bait, smart placement, and a plan for what comes after the catch.
Types of Squirrel Traps
Live cage traps are the most popular option for homeowners. These are rectangular wire cages with a spring-loaded door that closes when the squirrel steps on an interior trigger plate. A standard size for gray squirrels measures about 17 by 7 by 7 inches, built from 12-gauge galvanized steel wire mesh. Single-door models funnel the squirrel toward the bait at the back, while two-door versions offer entry from either end and can feel less threatening to a cautious animal.
Tube traps are enclosed steel tunnels, typically around 7.5 to 11 inches long, with a quick-set trigger inside. Some tube traps are lethal body-grip designs that kill instantly, while others are catch-and-release models. Lethal tube traps are compact enough to mount along fence lines or roof edges where squirrels travel, and their enclosed design keeps non-target animals from triggering them as easily. Snap traps, similar to oversized rat traps with a powerful steel spring, are another lethal option. These kill on contact and are reusable after cleaning.
For most homeowners dealing with squirrels in or around a house, a live cage trap is the simplest starting point. Lethal traps require more careful placement to avoid catching birds, pets, or other wildlife, and they carry additional legal considerations in many states.
Best Baits for Squirrel Traps
Peanut butter is the go-to bait because squirrels love it and, more importantly, they can’t grab it and run. Spread it directly onto the trigger plate so the squirrel has to press down to eat, which engages the mechanism. Solid baits like whole peanuts or bread can be snatched through the wire mesh without ever tripping the door.
A reliable technique is to smear peanut butter on the trigger plate, then press a few whole peanuts into it so the peanut butter acts as glue. This gives the squirrel something visible to investigate while forcing it to work at the bait long enough to trigger the trap. Place one or two loose peanuts just inside the entrance to draw the squirrel in, with the main bait positioned deep enough that the animal is fully inside before it reaches the food.
Other effective baits include unshelled walnuts, pecans, and sunflower seeds. If you’re targeting squirrels that have been raiding a particular food source, using that same food as bait often works best since the animals are already seeking it out.
Where to Place Your Trap
Set the trap on a flat surface along a path the squirrel already uses. If you’ve seen them running along a fence, climbing a specific tree, or entering through a gap in your soffit, those are your spots. Good locations include the base of a frequently climbed tree, along a fence line, near a bird feeder they’ve been raiding, in front of an entry point on your roof, or along a wall inside your attic, shed, or crawlspace.
One detail that surprises people: squirrels are more comfortable in the open than most wild animals. Placing a trap next to dense bushes or low shrubs can actually make them avoid it. Set it in a visible, open area along their travel route instead.
When trapping outdoors, anchor the trap to the ground or place a heavy object on top. Other animals, including raccoons, will tip an unanchored cage to steal the bait. Check the trap at least twice a day. A trapped squirrel left in the sun or cold for hours faces serious stress, and in some areas, leaving a trap unchecked for extended periods violates wildlife regulations.
Legal Rules You Need to Know
Trapping and relocating squirrels is regulated at the state level, and the rules are stricter than most people expect. In New York, for example, it is illegal to live-trap a squirrel and release it anywhere other than the property where it was captured. You cannot drive it to a park, state land, or a wooded area down the road. If you need the animal removed from your property entirely, you’re required to hire a licensed nuisance wildlife control operator.
Permit requirements also vary by species. Gray, black, and fox squirrels in New York require a permit from the state Department of Environmental Conservation if you’re trapping them as a nuisance. Red and flying squirrels have their own separate rules. If you trap a squirrel outside of hunting or trapping season, the animal must be buried or cremated immediately in that state.
These specifics are New York’s rules, but many states have similar frameworks. Some states allow relocation within a certain distance, others ban it entirely, and a few have no restrictions at all. Check your state wildlife agency’s website before setting a trap. The penalties for illegal trapping or relocation can include fines, and ignorance of the law isn’t a defense.
Avoiding Problems During Nesting Season
Squirrels give birth twice a year: once in spring (March through April) and again in late summer (late August through September). These are the peak times for attic infestations because pregnant females seek sheltered nesting spots. They’re also the worst times to trap without thinking it through.
If you catch and remove a nursing mother, her babies are left behind. Newborn squirrels are completely dependent on their mother. Without her, they’ll starve, and juvenile squirrels commonly fall into wall voids where they become trapped and die. The smell of a decomposing animal inside your walls is a problem that’s far harder to solve than the original squirrel issue.
During nesting season, inspect for babies before trapping or sealing any entry points. If you find a nest with young squirrels, the safest approach is to wait until the juveniles are old enough to leave on their own (usually six to eight weeks) or to call a wildlife professional who can remove the entire family together. Never seal an entry point while a mother or dependent young remain inside.
Sealing Entry Points After Removal
Trapping solves the immediate problem, but if you don’t close the holes, new squirrels will move in. Squirrels can squeeze through openings as small as 1.5 inches, and they’ll chew through wood, plastic, and thin aluminum to widen a gap.
The most effective material for sealing entry points is half-inch galvanized hardware cloth, a rigid metal mesh that squirrels can’t chew through. It’s strong, reasonably flexible for shaping around irregular openings, and available at any hardware store. For larger gaps, galvanized sheet metal attached with screws resists prying by raccoons and other animals. Stainless steel mesh is even more durable and won’t rust over time, though it costs more.
Common entry points include soffit gaps, roof-line intersections, gable vents, and openings where utility lines enter the house. For structures without full foundations, bury hardware cloth at least one foot deep around the base with a six-inch horizontal shelf at the bottom, creating an L-shaped barrier that prevents animals from digging underneath. This buried barrier, sometimes called a rat wall, stops squirrels, rats, and other burrowing animals from tunneling past it.
Inspect the rest of your roofline and exterior walls while you’re at it. Squirrels that have been entering through one spot have likely explored others. Trim tree branches that come within six to eight feet of your roof to cut off the most common aerial access route.