Raccoon and squirrel droppings look different enough to tell apart once you know what to check for, and the distinction matters because they carry very different health risks. Raccoon feces in particular can harbor a dangerous parasite that resists common disinfectants, so identifying what you’re dealing with is the first step toward cleaning it up safely.
How Raccoon Droppings Look
Raccoon droppings are tubular, roughly 2 to 3 inches long, and similar in diameter to a small dog’s feces. They often contain visible remnants of the animal’s varied diet: berry seeds, insect parts, or bits of undigested food. Fresh droppings are dark brown or black and moist; older ones turn lighter and crumble apart.
The most distinctive feature isn’t the droppings themselves but where you find them. Raccoons establish communal latrine sites, returning to the same spot repeatedly. You’ll typically see a pile of multiple droppings concentrated in one area rather than scattered around. Common latrine locations include attic corners, the base of large trees, flat spots on roofs or decks, and under porches. Finding a cluster of droppings in one spot, especially appearing overnight, signals an active raccoon nearby.
How Squirrel Droppings Look
Squirrel droppings are noticeably smaller, about the size of a grain of rice or a small bean, and barrel-shaped with rounded ends. They’re dark brown when fresh and lighten to a tan or gray as they dry. Unlike raccoon latrines, squirrel droppings tend to be scattered more randomly along travel routes and near nesting areas rather than piled in one communal spot.
When squirrels nest indoors, they contaminate insulation, wood, and stored items with droppings and urine over time. These materials dry out and can become airborne when disturbed during cleaning or renovation. The scattered pattern and small pellet size are the quickest ways to distinguish squirrel droppings from raccoon latrines, which are concentrated and much larger.
Health Risks From Raccoon Feces
Raccoon droppings pose a serious risk because they can contain eggs of a roundworm called Baylisascaris. After being deposited, the eggs take roughly 2 to 4 weeks to develop into their infectious form. Once they reach that stage, they can survive in soil for years.
When a person accidentally swallows these eggs, typically by touching contaminated soil or surfaces and then touching their mouth, the larvae hatch in the small intestine and penetrate into the bloodstream. In humans, the larvae don’t develop into adult worms. Instead, they migrate through organs and tissues, causing severe damage along the way. Symptoms can include behavioral changes, irritability, seizures, loss of coordination, weakness, and coma. The larvae can also reach the eyes independently of other symptoms, causing vision changes and potentially irreversible blindness. Neurological cases can result in permanent damage and can be fatal.
Young children face higher risk because they’re more likely to put contaminated objects or soil into their mouths. Clinical infection in humans is rare, but the consequences are severe enough that any raccoon latrine should be treated as hazardous.
Health Risks From Squirrel Feces
Squirrel droppings carry a different set of concerns, generally less severe than raccoon roundworm but still worth taking seriously. Salmonella bacteria can be present in squirrel droppings and on surfaces they contaminate. Symptoms typically develop within 12 to 72 hours and include diarrhea, abdominal cramps, fever, nausea, and vomiting. Severe cases can lead to dehydration or bloodstream complications.
Leptospirosis spreads through contact with urine from infected animals or through contaminated water and soil, which becomes more likely in spaces where squirrels have been nesting. It can cause fever, headache, muscle aches, vomiting, and jaundice. Tularemia is another bacterial infection linked to contact with infected animals or contaminated nesting areas. Squirrels rarely transmit hantavirus, though it remains a possibility in theory since it spreads through contact with rodent droppings, urine, and saliva.
How to Safely Clean Up Raccoon Latrines
Raccoon roundworm eggs are resistant to bleach and most household disinfectants. Using chlorine bleach can actually make things worse: it breaks down the sticky coating that holds the eggs to the fecal material, potentially releasing them into the surrounding area during cleanup. The only reliable way to kill the eggs is extreme heat.
Before you start, gather the right protective gear:
- Disposable gloves (rubber, plastic, or latex)
- N95 particle mask (essential in confined spaces like attics or crawl spaces)
- Rubber boots or disposable plastic booties
- Heavy-duty plastic garbage bags
- A shovel or metal scoop
Never use a leaf blower or vacuum cleaner on a raccoon latrine. Both will launch eggs and contaminated dust into the air where you can inhale or accidentally swallow them. Instead, lightly mist the area with water from a spray bottle to keep dust down. Scoop the droppings into a heavy-duty plastic bag, seal it, and dispose of it.
For hard, non-flammable surfaces like concrete, bricks, or gravel, a portable propane torch kills eggs on contact. Turn over and break up contaminated soil with a shovel, flaming it each pass. Before using any open flame outdoors, check with your local fire department about regulations. Obviously, do not use flame on wood decks, plastic, insulation, or anything combustible.
For indoor latrines where flame isn’t an option, wipe residual material with hot soapy water and a damp sponge. Rinse often, flush dirty water down the toilet, and bag the sponge for the trash. Boiling water can decontaminate small tools and rinse containers. After cleanup, launder all clothing you wore in hot water with detergent. Metal shovels and garden tools can be decontaminated with a propane torch or by boiling.
Cleaning Up Squirrel Droppings
Squirrel feces don’t require the same extreme heat treatment, but you should still wear gloves and an N95 mask, especially in enclosed spaces like attics where dried droppings can crumble into dust. Mist the area lightly before disturbing anything. Pick up droppings with paper towels or a damp cloth, bag them, and wipe the area down with hot soapy water or a disinfectant. If squirrels have been nesting in insulation, the contaminated material generally needs to be removed and replaced, since urine and droppings soak in over time.
Keeping Raccoons and Squirrels Out
Cleanup only solves the immediate problem. If animals still have access, fresh droppings will follow. A few practical steps can make a significant difference.
Inspect your home for cracks, holes, and loose siding, paying close attention to eaves, vents, and where the roof meets the siding. Seal entry points with durable materials like metal flashing or heavy-duty mesh. Install chimney caps and secure vent covers so animals can’t use them as doorways. Trim tree branches back at least 6 to 8 feet from your roofline, since overhanging limbs serve as direct highways onto your roof for both raccoons and squirrels.
Secure outdoor food sources by keeping garbage cans tightly lidded (bungee cords or locks help with persistent raccoons) and bringing pet food inside at night. Motion-activated lights or sprinklers can deter wildlife from approaching entry points, particularly raccoons, which are primarily active after dark.
If animals have already established themselves in your attic, professional removal is often the most practical route. Beyond trapping and relocation, wildlife control services can identify and seal every entry point, repair chewed wires or damaged insulation, and sanitize contaminated areas, all of which reduce the chance of a repeat infestation.