Raccoon exclusion is the process of sealing a building so raccoons can’t get in, then ensuring any animals already inside get out safely. It’s the most reliable long-term solution to a raccoon problem because trapping and relocating alone doesn’t work. New raccoons simply move into the same openings. A proper exclusion addresses every vulnerable point on a structure and combines it with outdoor changes that make your property less attractive in the first place.
Where Raccoons Get In
Raccoons are strong, dexterous, and surprisingly flexible. They can pry open materials that seem solid and squeeze through gaps you wouldn’t expect. A full exterior inspection is the critical first step in any exclusion project, because most homes have multiple weak points, not just one.
The most common entry points include soffit intersections (where the roof overhang meets the house), attic vents, roof-edge flashing, plumbing vents, and chimney caps that are missing or damaged. Raccoons frequently target the junction where two rooflines meet, because the construction at these seams often leaves small gaps that a raccoon can widen with its claws. Spray foam insulation is not a barrier. Wildlife professionals regularly find raccoons entering through areas where a previous homeowner or contractor used spray foam as a “fix.” Raccoons tear through it in minutes.
Crawl space vents, dryer vents without metal covers, and gaps around HVAC lines on the roof are also targets. If your home has a soffit made of vinyl or thin aluminum, raccoons can simply peel it back. The key principle: if a material isn’t metal and securely fastened, a determined raccoon can defeat it.
Materials That Actually Hold Up
The standard material for raccoon exclusion is 1/2-inch welded hardware cloth. The half-inch openings are small enough that raccoons can’t reach through them (the way they can with chicken wire), and the welded joints resist the pulling and twisting raccoons apply. Chicken wire is not adequate for raccoon exclusion. It’s designed to keep chickens in, not to keep a 25-pound animal with hand-like paws out.
For most homes, galvanized steel hardware cloth works well. The zinc coating resists rust in normal conditions and keeps costs reasonable. If you live in a coastal area or anywhere with persistent moisture, stainless steel (specifically 316 grade for salt-spray environments) lasts longer and won’t need replacing. It costs more upfront but eliminates the risk of corrosion weakening the barrier over time.
Beyond hardware cloth, exclusion work often involves galvanized sheet metal flashing to reinforce roof edges, heavy-gauge metal vent covers, and commercial chimney caps rated for wildlife exclusion. One-way exclusion doors, which let raccoons leave but not re-enter, are a core tool for clearing animals out of an attic without trapping them inside.
Timing Matters: Breeding Season Risks
Raccoon breeding season runs from January through March, with kits typically born in March and April. A mother raccoon (called a sow) has litters of two to five kits. If her first litter doesn’t survive, she may give birth to a second as late as June. This means raccoons are most likely to be nesting in attics, chimneys, and outbuildings from roughly February through July.
This timing creates a serious risk during exclusion work. If you seal a mother raccoon out of your attic while her kits are still inside, those babies will die. They can’t survive without her. Reputable wildlife professionals treat every raccoon call during this window as potentially involving a litter until they can confirm otherwise. The standard approach is to locate and remove the kits by hand, place them in a heated “baby box” near the original entry point after exclusion barriers are installed, and let the mother retrieve them. She’ll relocate them to an alternate den site.
If you’re doing exclusion work yourself, late fall (October through December) is the safest window. There are no dependent young, and you’re sealing up before the next breeding season begins.
Outdoor Changes That Reduce Pressure
Exclusion isn’t just about the building. If your yard is full of food sources and shelter, raccoons will keep testing your defenses. Eliminating what draws them in reduces the pressure on your exclusion work considerably.
- Trash cans: Use cans with tight-fitting lids, secured with wire or clamps. Raccoons can flip lightweight lids easily. Bungee cords work in a pinch, but locking-lid cans are more reliable.
- Pet food: Never leave pet food outside overnight. This is one of the single biggest attractants.
- Fruit trees and gardens: Pick up fallen fruit promptly. For sweet corn or melon patches, a single strand of electric wire six to ten inches above the ground is effective at stopping raccoons.
- Bird feeders: Bring them in at night, or switch to feeders designed to close under heavy weight.
- Climbing access: Wrap trees near your roof with aluminum flashing or galvanized sheet metal to prevent raccoons from climbing up. The metal band should be at least three feet tall and start high enough that raccoons can’t jump above it.
For poultry yards or garden fencing, electric wire along the top of the fence prevents raccoons from climbing over. Gates and fencing need to be tight to the ground with no gaps, since raccoons will probe the bottom edge looking for a way under.
Health Risks From Raccoon Latrines
Once raccoons have been living in your attic or crawl space, the space they occupied needs careful cleanup. Raccoons establish communal latrines, designated spots where they repeatedly defecate. These latrines can contain eggs of a roundworm called Baylisascaris procyonis. If the infectious form of these microscopic eggs is accidentally inhaled or swallowed, the larvae can migrate into organs and, in rare cases, cause serious eye disease, brain or spinal cord damage, or death.
Cleanup in a confined space like an attic or crawl space requires an N95-rated particle mask, disposable gloves, and either disposable plastic booties or rubber boots. Mist the latrine area first to keep dust from going airborne. Scoop feces with a disposable tool into heavy-duty double bags. Hard surfaces can be disinfected with boiling water. Contaminated insulation needs to be removed and replaced entirely. If the latrine was on soil (under a deck or in a crawl space), remove and replace the top two to four inches of dirt. Launder all clothing in hot water afterward.
This is one area where many homeowners reasonably decide to hire a professional. Post-removal cleanup and sanitation of indoor areas typically costs $250 to $500, which covers nest removal, feces cleanup, and damaged insulation replacement.
What Professional Exclusion Costs
Professional raccoon removal averages around $400, but the total price varies widely based on how many animals are involved, where they are, and how much exclusion and repair work the structure needs.
An initial inspection typically runs $80 to $150. Removing a single raccoon from a yard costs $150 to $300, while an attic removal runs $550 to $975 because of the access difficulty and likelihood of a nest. Chimney removals are the most expensive, ranging from $400 to $3,500, largely because chimney work often requires specialized caps and liner repairs.
The exclusion work itself is a separate line item. Animal-proof vent covers cost $300 to $450 each, installed. One-way metal mesh exclusion barriers run $10 to $25 per linear foot. A full-structure exclusion on a typical home with multiple vulnerable soffits, several vents, and roof-edge reinforcement can easily reach $1,000 to $1,900 or more once materials and labor are combined.
The cost feels steep until you compare it to the alternative. Raccoons in an attic destroy insulation (which costs thousands to replace), chew wiring (creating fire risk), and leave behind contaminated latrines. A one-time exclusion investment prevents damage that compounds every season the animals have access.
DIY Exclusion: What’s Realistic
Homeowners can handle some exclusion tasks themselves, particularly securing ground-level entry points, reinforcing crawl space vents with hardware cloth, and installing locking chimney caps. These jobs require basic tools, 1/2-inch galvanized hardware cloth, sheet metal screws, and tin snips.
Roof-level work is where DIY gets risky, both physically and in terms of effectiveness. Missing even one gap at a soffit junction means the entire project fails. Raccoons are persistent enough to find the one spot you overlooked. If you go the DIY route, inspect every seam, vent, and junction on the roof with a flashlight from inside the attic on a sunny day. Light coming through means there’s a gap. From outside, look for greasy smudge marks around potential entry points, a telltale sign of repeated raccoon traffic.
Regardless of approach, the sequence matters. Confirm all raccoons are out before sealing. Install one-way doors on active entry points first, wait several days for the animals to leave, verify the space is empty, then permanently seal. Skipping this step risks trapping animals inside, which leads to far more damage as they try to claw their way out.