A raccoon cage trap (also called a live trap) is a wire mesh enclosure with a spring-loaded door that closes when a raccoon steps on an interior trigger plate. For adult raccoons, you need a trap that measures at least 32 inches long by 10 inches wide by 12 inches tall, though larger models (36 to 42 inches) give you a better catch rate since raccoons are more willing to enter a spacious trap. Choosing the right trap is only part of the process. Placement, bait selection, and knowing your local laws all determine whether you actually catch the raccoon causing problems.
Where to Place the Trap
Raccoons are creatures of habit. They follow the same paths between their den and food sources night after night, so the best trap location is along one of these travel routes. Look for tracks in mud or soft soil, droppings near your trash cans, or worn paths along fence lines and building edges. Place the trap on a flat, stable surface directly in or near these signs of activity.
Face the trap opening toward the direction the raccoon normally approaches from. If the animal has been raiding your garbage, set the trap within a few feet of the cans. If it’s living under a deck or porch, position the trap near the entry point. Raccoons are nocturnal, so set the trap in the evening and check it first thing in the morning. Leaving an animal in a cage trap through a hot afternoon can kill it.
Best Baits for Raccoon Traps
Raccoons are omnivores with a strong sense of smell, and the best baits exploit both traits. Oily, pungent foods work especially well because the scent carries far enough to draw a raccoon off its usual path and into the trap.
- Canned tuna or sardines in oil: The fishier and cheaper, the better. The oil amplifies the scent. Open a can and place it at the back of the trap, drizzling some oil along the floor leading inward.
- Cheap cat food: Dry cat food made with rough fish is loaded with oil and has a strong smell raccoons find irresistible. It still works even if rain dissolves it. Wet cat food is equally effective.
- Marshmallows: The sugary scent attracts raccoons, and marshmallows have the added benefit of being less appealing to cats and dogs. For extra drawing power, add a few drops of sardine or tuna oil to the marshmallow after placing it in the trap.
- Creamy peanut butter: Smear it on the trigger plate itself so the raccoon has to step on the plate to lick it off.
- Overripe fruit: Cantaloupe, watermelon, and strawberries work particularly well in spring and summer. Grocery stores will sometimes sell or give away damaged fruit that’s perfect for this purpose.
The key is placing bait far enough inside the trap that the raccoon must step completely past the trigger plate to reach it. If bait is too close to the entrance, the animal can grab it without triggering the door.
When Raccoons Outsmart the Trap
Raccoons are intelligent animals with excellent memories, and they sometimes steal bait without getting caught. If you find your trap sprung but empty, or the bait gone with the trap still open, a few adjustments usually solve the problem.
First, secure the trap to the ground or weigh it down with a brick on top. Raccoons will tip over or shake a lightweight trap to knock bait loose. Second, make sure the bait is positioned so the raccoon has no choice but to stand on the trigger plate. Smearing peanut butter directly on the plate or wiring a piece of fish to the back wall forces the animal deeper inside.
If a raccoon seems wary of the trap entirely, try a pre-baiting period. Tie the door open with wire or zip ties and leave bait inside for two or three nights without setting the trap. Once the raccoon is comfortable walking in and out freely, untie the door and set the trigger. This approach takes patience but works well on trap-shy animals.
Legal Rules You Need to Know
Before setting a cage trap, check your state and local wildlife regulations. Many states classify raccoons as furbearers or game animals with specific trapping seasons, and trapping outside those seasons without a nuisance wildlife permit can result in fines. Some states require you to hold a trapping license even for cage traps on your own property.
Relocation is the rule that catches most people off guard. In many states, it is illegal to transport a live-trapped raccoon and release it somewhere else. New York, for example, prohibits moving any trapped animal off the property where it was captured. You cannot drive it to a park, state land, or a rural area and let it go. The reasoning is practical: relocating wildlife spreads diseases like rabies and raccoon roundworm to new areas and causes severe stress to the animal, which often doesn’t survive in unfamiliar territory anyway.
If your state prohibits relocation and you aren’t comfortable with the alternatives, contact a licensed nuisance wildlife control operator. These professionals have the permits and equipment to handle the situation legally.
Handling a Trapped Raccoon Safely
A raccoon in a cage trap is stressed and unpredictable. Even normally docile raccoons will scratch and bite when cornered. More importantly, raccoons carry two serious disease risks: rabies and raccoon roundworm. Roughly 40 to 60 percent of raccoons carry roundworm, a parasite whose eggs can remain infectious in the environment for years. Human infections are rare but can be severe if the eggs are accidentally ingested, potentially affecting the eyes, organs, or brain.
Always wear thick, bite-resistant gloves when handling an occupied trap. Draping a dark towel or tarp over the cage calms the animal and reduces thrashing. Keep your fingers away from the wire mesh, as raccoon claws are long enough to reach through and scratch you.
To move the trap, slide a broomstick or sturdy dowel through the carrying handle so you can hold the cage away from your body. If two people are available, one can carry each end of the broomstick.
Releasing a Raccoon From the Trap
If you’re releasing the raccoon on your own property (where legal), position the trap with the door facing an escape route like a tree line or wooded area. If you have a partner, one person can distract the raccoon at the front of the trap while the other opens or removes the rear door, then both step back quickly. If you’re alone, wait for the raccoon to settle toward the front of the cage, then open the rear door and back away. Give the animal time and space to find its way out on its own.
After releasing, clean the trap with a bleach solution. If there are raccoon droppings in or around the trap, wear a mask during cleanup. Burning contaminated material is the only reliable way to destroy roundworm eggs, as they resist most disinfectants.
Avoiding Non-Target Catches
Cage traps set for raccoons regularly catch cats, opossums, skunks, and groundhogs. You can reduce unwanted catches with a few strategies. Marshmallows are one of the best baits for selectivity because cats and most dogs show little interest in them. Setting traps after dark and checking them before dawn also helps, since raccoons are primarily nocturnal while many non-target animals are active during the day.
If you do catch a cat or other animal, open the door slowly from behind the trap while staying out of the way. Most animals will bolt immediately once the door is open. For skunks, approach very slowly and drape a towel over the cage before opening the door. Skunks are less likely to spray when they can’t see a threat.