Live trapping is the most common way homeowners deal with a skunk that has moved in under a porch, deck, or shed. The process works, but it requires the right trap, a covering strategy to prevent spraying, and a plan for what happens after the skunk is caught. Before you set anything, check your state’s wildlife regulations, because many states prohibit relocating skunks entirely.
Check Your State Laws First
Skunks are classified as rabies vector species in most states, alongside raccoons and foxes. Because of this, many states flatly prohibit relocating trapped skunks. Connecticut, for example, bans relocation of skunks, raccoons, and foxes under its general statutes to prevent human-assisted spread of rabies. Other states require permits or restrict trapping to situations where the animal is actively damaging property or threatening public safety.
Even in states that allow trapping, homeowners are often prohibited from trapping wildlife outside regulated seasons unless the animal is causing property damage or poses a clear health risk. Penalties vary, but getting caught relocating a rabies vector species illegally can result in fines. Call your state wildlife agency or check their website before purchasing a trap. If relocation is banned in your area, a licensed nuisance wildlife control operator can handle the removal legally.
Many wildlife agencies recommend alternatives to trapping altogether: evicting skunks from under structures using harassment techniques or one-way doors, then sealing entry points and removing food sources. These approaches avoid the legal complications and the risk of getting sprayed during trap handling.
Choosing the Right Trap
A standard skunk live trap measures roughly 32 x 10 x 12 inches, which is the size of the commonly used Tomahawk No. 108 cage trap. It weighs about 14 pounds and has a single door that’s 10 x 12 inches. This size gives the skunk enough room inside without allowing it to turn and spray toward the door end where you’ll be working. Smaller double-door models (around 24 x 7 x 7 inches) also exist but are better suited for smaller animals.
The door mechanism matters more than most people realize. Gravity door traps, where the door simply drops closed under its own weight, are strongly preferred for skunk trapping. The reason is practical: when it’s time to release the animal, you can open a gravity door from a distance by flipping the trap. Spring-loaded door traps require you to physically manipulate the latch by hand, which puts you much closer to the skunk and increases your chances of getting sprayed.
Look for 12-gauge galvanized steel wire mesh with 1 x 1 inch or 1 x 2 inch openings. The tighter mesh prevents the skunk from reaching its claws through the cage walls.
Setting the Trap Without Attracting Spray
Place the trap on level ground along the path the skunk uses, typically near its den entrance or along a fence line or foundation wall. Skunks are creatures of habit and tend to follow the same routes each night. Set the trap in the evening, since skunks are nocturnal, and check it first thing in the morning.
The single most important step happens before you even bait the trap: cover the back half of the cage with a durable cloth. Use a towel, piece of canvas, or denim, and secure it so wind won’t blow it off. Cover the half opposite the door. This cloth serves two purposes. It gives the skunk a dark, sheltered space that feels less threatening, which calms the animal. And it gives you a visual shield to approach from after the skunk is caught. The cloth should be something you’re willing to throw away.
For bait, use cat food, sardines, peanut butter on bread, or marshmallows. Place the bait at the far back of the trap, past the trigger plate, so the skunk has to step fully inside and engage the mechanism.
Approaching a Trapped Skunk
When you find a skunk in the trap the next morning, move slowly and quietly. Skunks spray as a last resort and give warning signs first: stomping their front feet, raising their tail, and turning their rear toward the threat. If the back half of the trap is already covered, approach from that cloth-covered side so the skunk cannot see you coming.
Have a second cloth ready, large enough to cover the entire trap. Hold it in front of you as you walk toward the cage. Once you’re close enough, drape it over the exposed portion so the trap is fully covered. A skunk that can’t see a threat is far less likely to spray. Move deliberately, not quickly. Sudden movements or loud sounds are what trigger the spray response.
Once the trap is covered, you can lift it gently and place it in the bed of a truck or on a tarp for transport. Keep the cage level and avoid jostling it. Covered traps can be used to transport the animal safely.
Releasing the Skunk
If your state allows relocation, transport the skunk at least five to ten miles from your property to a wooded area with water access. The release method depends entirely on your trap’s door type.
For gravity door traps, the process is simple and keeps you far from the animal. Fully extend a painter’s pole (an 18-foot telescoping pole works, though shorter versions are fine), reach from a distance, and gently push the trap over so it rests on its roof. When the trap flips upside down, the gravity door swings open on its own, and the skunk can walk out. Step back and give the animal space.
For spring-loaded door traps, you’ll need to open the latch by hand. This is why wildlife professionals recommend practicing the door mechanism before you ever set the trap. You need to be able to pop it open quickly. Set a brick or similar object near the door that’s tall enough to prop it open at least five inches, so the skunk has a clear exit. Then step away.
After the door is open, keep people and pets away from the area. The skunk will leave on its own once things are quiet. If it’s warm out and the animal seems reluctant to move, a gentle spray from a garden hose can encourage it to seek dry cover. The goal is to get the skunk slightly wet, not to blast it with water pressure. Make sure nearby building doors are closed, because a startled skunk may duck into a garage or shed looking for shelter.
If You Get Sprayed
Skunk spray is an oily, sulfur-based compound that bonds to skin and fabric. Tomato juice doesn’t work. The mixture that actually breaks down the oils requires three household ingredients: one quart of fresh 3% hydrogen peroxide, a quarter cup of baking soda, and one to two teaspoons of liquid dish soap. Mix these in an open container (never a sealed bottle, as the reaction produces gas) and use the solution immediately.
For skin or pets, lather the mixture on and leave it for five minutes before rinsing. You may need to repeat the process. For clothing, the same solution can help, but heavily sprayed fabrics are often not worth saving. The hydrogen peroxide can lighten dark fabrics and fur, so be aware of that tradeoff on dark-coated dogs.
Preventing Skunks From Returning
Trapping solves the immediate problem, but if the conditions that attracted the skunk remain, another one will move in. Skunks den under structures with accessible crawl spaces, so the priority after removal is sealing entry points. Use heavy-gauge wire mesh or hardware cloth buried six to twelve inches below grade along the base of decks, porches, and sheds. Skunks are strong diggers, and a barrier that only sits at ground level won’t hold.
Remove food attractants: fallen fruit, pet food left outdoors, unsecured garbage, and accessible compost. Skunks also dig small, cone-shaped holes in lawns while hunting grubs. If your yard has a grub problem, treating the lawn reduces one of the main reasons skunks visit residential areas in the first place.