You can trap a skunk without getting sprayed by keeping the animal calm at every stage: use a covered or dark trap, approach slowly from behind a visual barrier, and avoid any sudden movements. Skunks rarely spray without warning, and a skunk that feels sheltered and unthreatened will typically stay docile through the entire process. The key is understanding that spraying is a last resort for them, not a first instinct.
Choose the Right Trap
A single-door cage trap should be at least 7 by 7 by 24 inches. You have two main options: standard wire mesh cage traps or solid-walled box traps designed specifically for skunks. Solid-walled traps cost more but keep the skunk in darkness from the moment of capture, which significantly reduces stress and the chance of spraying. If you go with a wire mesh trap, you’ll need to cover it yourself, which works just as well with the right technique.
Before you set the trap, drape an old blanket or towel over the bait end, covering the walls and back panel for at least half the trap’s length. This does two things: it gives the skunk a sheltered, dark space to settle into, and it lets you approach later without being seen. Leave the door end uncovered so the skunk can enter freely.
Bait and Placement
Place the trap along a path the skunk already uses, near its den entrance or along a fence line or wall where you’ve noticed activity. Skunks are creatures of habit and will follow familiar routes. Set the trap in the evening since skunks are most active after dark. Cat food, sardines, peanut butter on bread, or marshmallows all work well as bait. Position the bait at the far back of the trap so the skunk has to step fully inside to reach it, ensuring the door mechanism triggers properly.
Know the Warning Signs
A skunk almost never sprays without signaling first. Recognizing these warnings gives you time to back off and reset your approach:
- Stomping front feet: the clearest sign the skunk feels cornered
- Hissing or growling: signals fear or aggression
- Raised tail with arched back: the spray glands are being positioned
- Turning its body to aim at you: spraying is imminent
If you see any of these, stop moving and slowly increase your distance. The skunk is telling you it’s scared, not that it wants a fight. Give it time to calm down before trying again.
How to Approach a Trapped Skunk
Check the trap in the early morning. If you’ve caught a skunk, here’s where technique matters most. Grab a second blanket or large cloth, big enough to cover the entire remaining exposed portion of the trap. Approach from the already-covered side so the skunk cannot see you. Walk slowly and quietly. Hold the cloth open in front of your body as an additional visual shield.
When you reach the trap, gently drape the second cloth over the uncovered portion so the entire trap is now in darkness. A skunk kept in the dark is less fearful and far less likely to spray. Do not bump, kick, or jostle the trap at any point. Every movement should be smooth and deliberate. It’s worth noting that a covered trap does not guarantee the skunk won’t spray. It only reduces the likelihood. Your calm, slow movements are just as important as the cover itself.
Transporting the Trap
With the trap fully covered, carefully lift it and carry it to your vehicle or relocation point. Keep the trap level. Tilting or swinging will frighten the skunk. If you’re loading it into a truck bed or car trunk, place it on a flat surface and secure it so it won’t slide during the drive. Talk in a low, steady voice or stay silent. Loud noises and vibrations are your enemies here.
Releasing the Skunk Safely
How you open the trap depends on the door type. For gravity-door traps (where the door drops down by its own weight), you can use an extended painter’s pole, 18 feet is ideal, to tip the trap upside down from a safe distance. Once the trap is resting on its roof, the gravity door falls open and the skunk walks out. You never have to get close.
For spring-loaded door traps, you need to prop the door open manually. Find a brick or block tall and wide enough to hold the door at least 5 inches open, but not so large it blocks the exit. Make sure the skunk is at the far end of the trap, facing away from the door. Quickly prop the door open, then back away while holding the large blanket open between you and the trap as a visual barrier. The skunk will leave on its own once it realizes the path is clear. Don’t rush it. Some skunks take several minutes to wander out.
Check Your Local Laws First
Before you set a trap, look up your state and local regulations. Many states prohibit relocating trapped wildlife to public land, parks, or anywhere off your own property. In New York, for example, it is illegal to move a trapped animal off your property at all. Releasing a skunk elsewhere can spread diseases like rabies and creates problems for people in the release area. If relocation is restricted where you live, your legal option is to contact a licensed nuisance wildlife control operator to handle the removal.
Some states also require that skunks trapped outside of hunting or trapping season be euthanized rather than released, due to rabies concerns. Regulations vary widely, so checking before trapping saves you from an unpleasant legal situation on top of an already unpleasant chore.
If You Do Get Sprayed
Even with perfect technique, accidents happen. The standard home remedy for skunk odor actually works well if you mix it fresh. Combine one quart of 3% hydrogen peroxide (use a new, unopened bottle), a quarter cup of baking soda, and one to two teaspoons of liquid dish soap. Mix in an open container and apply immediately to skin, clothing, or pets. Do not store this mixture in a sealed bottle, as it produces gas and can build pressure. The hydrogen peroxide breaks down the oily, sulfur-based compounds in skunk spray, while the baking soda and soap help lift them off surfaces. Tomato juice, by contrast, mostly just masks the smell.