How To Get Rid Of Woodpeckers Pecking Your House

The fastest way to stop woodpeckers from damaging your house is to hang reflective streamers near the affected area. Of all the common deterrents tested, shiny streamers that move in the wind are the only method that works with any consistency. But the best long-term fix depends on why the bird is pecking in the first place, and there are usually only three possible reasons.

Why Woodpeckers Target Houses

Woodpeckers peck houses for one of three reasons: they’re drumming to mark territory, foraging for insects inside the wood, or excavating a nesting cavity. Each behavior looks different, and knowing which one you’re dealing with tells you exactly what to do about it.

Drumming is the loud, rapid hammering you hear in spring. The bird isn’t trying to dig into your house. It’s broadcasting to other woodpeckers, the way songbirds use their voices. Woodpeckers choose surfaces that resonate loudly, which is why metal gutters, chimney caps, and hollow siding are common targets. Drumming is seasonal, usually heaviest from March through June, and causes mostly surface-level cosmetic damage.

Foraging looks different. You’ll see irregular clusters of small holes, sometimes in lines, where the bird is probing for insects like carpenter ants, wood-boring beetle larvae, or carpenter bees living inside the wood. If your woodpecker is foraging, the bird is telling you something important: your siding likely has a bug problem. The woodpecker isn’t the real issue. The infestation is.

Nesting produces one large, round hole, typically 1.5 to 3 inches in diameter. Woodpeckers prefer soft or rotting wood for nest cavities, so if a bird is excavating into your house, the wood in that spot may already be deteriorating.

Reflective Streamers: The Most Reliable Deterrent

A 2007 study tested six common woodpecker deterrents head to head: plastic owls with movable wings, reflective streamers, plastic eyes on fishing line, roost boxes, suet feeders, and a sound system playing woodpecker distress calls followed by hawk calls. Reflective streamers were the clear winner. Their shiny surface and constant movement in the wind completely eliminated damage at half of the 16 test sites.

Plastic owls and distress call recordings worked initially but lost their effect as the birds habituated. The researchers concluded that nothing deterred woodpeckers 100% of the time, but streamers were the only method that worked with any consistency. You can buy reflective bird tape (sometimes called “scare tape”) at most hardware stores. Hang strips near the damaged area so they catch light and flutter freely.

Other Deterrents Worth Trying

Homeowners have reported success with several visual scare devices: windsocks, pinwheels, helium balloons (shiny Mylar balloons work especially well), strips of aluminum foil, and reflective tape. The common thread is movement and reflected light. A static object like a plastic owl sitting motionless on your roof will stop working once the bird realizes it’s not a threat.

Physical barriers are another option. Covering the damaged area with burlap or bird netting (the lightweight kind sold for gardens and fruit trees) blocks access effectively. If you use netting, hang it from the eaves so it drapes over the siding, keeping it taut and at least 3 inches away from the wall. If the netting sits flush against the wood, woodpeckers can peck right through it.

One category of product to avoid entirely: sticky repellents marketed under names like Tanglefoot, Roost-No-More, or Bird Stop. These adhesive substances can fatally trap or injure birds and other animals.

Check for an Insect Problem

If the damage pattern looks like foraging (scattered small holes rather than one large cavity or surface-level drumming marks), inspect the wood carefully. Carpenter bees leave perfectly round holes about half an inch wide. Carpenter ants leave behind fine sawdust-like frass. Wood-boring beetles create tiny exit holes and powdery residue.

Treating the insect infestation is the most effective long-term fix in this situation. Once the food source is gone, the woodpecker has no reason to return. If you find carpenter bee holes, they need to be treated before sealing. Simply plugging the holes traps live bees inside, which makes the problem worse the following season. After treatment, fill and seal every hole to remove the scent trails that attract both returning bees and foraging woodpeckers.

If the wood itself is soft or rotting, replacing the damaged sections removes the conditions that attracted both insects and woodpeckers in the first place.

Repair the Damage Promptly

Whatever the cause, fill existing woodpecker holes as soon as you can. Open holes invite moisture, insects, and further pecking. For small foraging holes, exterior wood filler or epoxy works well. For larger nesting cavities, you may need to patch with a fitted wood plug, then prime and paint to match. Leaving holes unrepaired essentially advertises the spot to the same bird or others passing through.

Woodpeckers Are Federally Protected

All native woodpecker species in the United States are protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. This federal law prohibits killing, capturing, or trapping any protected migratory bird without a permit. You cannot legally shoot, poison, or trap a woodpecker on your own.

If non-lethal methods have failed and the damage is severe, you can apply for a depredation permit through the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The process requires documentation that you’ve already tried non-lethal deterrents like scare devices or habitat modifications. You’ll also need a Wildlife Services Permit Review Form completed by the USDA, which may involve a site visit. The fee is $50 for individuals dealing with damage to a personal residence. Even if a permit is granted, you’re still expected to continue using non-lethal measures alongside any authorized removal.

In practice, the permit process is slow and designed as a last resort. Most homeowners find that a combination of reflective deterrents, physical barriers, and addressing any underlying insect problems resolves the issue well before a permit becomes necessary.