House sparrows (also called English sparrows) are one of only three bird species in the United States with no federal protection, which means you can legally remove them, destroy their nests, and trap them without a permit. The other two unprotected species are European starlings and pigeons. This legal status exists because house sparrows are an invasive species that aggressively displaces native cavity-nesting birds like bluebirds, chickadees, and tree swallows, often killing adults and nestlings to take over nest sites.
Getting rid of them takes a combination of approaches: making your property less attractive, physically excluding them, and actively removing individuals when necessary. No single method works perfectly on its own.
Stop Feeding Them
The fastest way to reduce house sparrow numbers is to cut off their food supply. If you have bird feeders, the type of seed you offer matters enormously. White millet, canary seed, and bread are house sparrow magnets. Black oil sunflower seeds are also easy for them to crack open and will keep them coming back.
Switch to striped sunflower seeds, which have a thicker shell that house sparrows struggle to crack. Safflower seed is another option: cardinals, grosbeaks, and chickadees eat it readily, while house sparrows generally avoid it (though in some regions they’ve developed a taste for it, so results vary). Milo, or sorghum, is worth trying in western states, where native jays, thrashers, and quail prefer it. In one seed-preference study from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, house sparrows didn’t eat milo at all.
If house sparrows are still swarming your feeders after a seed switch, try a monofilament “halo” deterrent. This is a simple wire or fishing line frame mounted above a feeder, with several lengths of monofilament hanging down around it. House sparrows are wary of the dangling lines and will flutter anxiously rather than land, while most native birds ignore them entirely. The halo isn’t foolproof: breeding pairs with nearby nests will eventually overcome their fear to feed hungry nestlings. But it reduces casual visits significantly.
Protect Nest Boxes From Takeover
If you maintain nest boxes for bluebirds or other native cavity nesters, house sparrows are your biggest threat. They will build nests on top of active native bird nests, puncture eggs, and kill adult birds inside the box. Protecting your boxes is not optional if you want native birds to succeed.
Entrance hole size is your first line of defense. A standard 1.5-inch round hole lets house sparrows in easily. Switching to a horizontal slot entrance of 1 1/8 inches high excludes house sparrows while still admitting bluebirds. For chickadee boxes, a round hole of 1 1/8 inches works because chickadees are slightly smaller than house sparrows. Vertical slot entrances need to be no wider than 7/8 inch (by 1.5 inches tall) to block sparrows.
Location also matters. House sparrows strongly prefer nest sites close to buildings and human activity. Placing boxes at least 300 feet from buildings and barns reduces the chance of sparrow interest. Boxes in open fields or along fence lines away from structures are far less appealing to them.
Trapping House Sparrows
When house sparrows are already established, trapping is often the most effective removal method. There are two main categories: in-box traps and ground (cage) traps.
In-Box Traps
These mount inside a nest box and catch sparrows that enter. They work during nesting season when sparrows are actively claiming boxes. Once set, a house sparrow typically enters and triggers the trap within minutes. You can increase the draw by poking a strand of long grass out of the entrance hole, which mimics another bird trying to use the box and provokes the sparrow’s territorial instinct.
The Van Ert Universal Sparrow Trap is one of the most popular. It’s spring-loaded, made of metal, and mounts with two small screws that stay in the box permanently so you can slip the trap on and off as needed. It fits most box designs. The Gilbertson Trap uses a piece of metal measuring tape that snaps shut over the entrance hole, trapping the bird inside, and works on any box style. The Huber Trap is reliable but heavier and harder to move between boxes. The Mel Bolt Trap uses a wire mesh cage inside the box to contain the sparrow after triggering, and works best with front-opening boxes hinged at the bottom.
All in-box traps require careful monitoring. You need to check them frequently to avoid accidentally trapping native birds, which must be released immediately.
Ground and Cage Traps
These are baited traps placed on the ground or on elevated surfaces like deck railings or picnic tables. White bread, millet, and feathers all attract house sparrows. Most ground traps work best with one or two live “decoy” house sparrows kept inside to attract others. If you use decoys, you must provide food and water at all times.
The Deluxe Repeating Sparrow Trap (designed by Blaine Johnson) is a favorite among experienced trappers because it catches multiple birds without needing to be reset. Once sparrows enter, they can’t find their way back out. It works best slightly elevated rather than directly on the ground. For smaller operations, a Havahart two-door cage trap (model 1025 or 1020) catches one or two birds at a time and is a simpler option, though it also catches small mammals.
What to Do With Trapped Birds
Because house sparrows are unprotected, releasing them simply moves the problem to someone else’s yard. Most bluebird conservation groups strongly recommend humane euthanasia of trapped house sparrows rather than relocation. This is the part of sparrow management that people find hardest, but releasing them means they’ll continue displacing native birds wherever they end up.
The most widely recommended method for small birds is cervical dislocation, which is instantaneous when done correctly. The AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association) lists this as an acceptable method for small animals. Inhalation methods using a sealed container are also considered acceptable with conditions, though the bird must be small enough to fit in the container. If you’re not comfortable with euthanasia, contact a local wildlife control operator or bluebird society for guidance.
Physical Barriers for Buildings
House sparrows love nesting in building gaps: eaves, vents, signage, rafters, and loading docks. Bird netting is the most effective physical exclusion for these areas. For house sparrows specifically, you need a mesh size of 3/4 inch. The more common 2-inch mesh used for pigeons is too large, and sparrows pass right through it. A 1 1/8-inch mesh works as an intermediate option for mixed bird problems.
Seal any gaps larger than 3/4 inch in soffits, eaves, and around utility penetrations. Hardware cloth or copper mesh stuffed into gaps works well for irregular openings. Vent covers with appropriate mesh prevent sparrows from nesting inside dryer vents and bathroom exhaust ducts, which are favorite nesting spots.
Nest Removal
Regularly removing house sparrow nests is legal and effective as a discouragement tool, though it requires persistence. House sparrows will rebuild a destroyed nest within days, so you need to remove nests repeatedly before the birds give up and move elsewhere. Check nest boxes and building cavities at least weekly during breeding season (roughly March through August in most of the U.S.). Remove all nesting material, eggs, and any unhatched contents. It can take several rounds of removal before a determined pair relocates, but most will eventually abandon the site if nesting is disrupted consistently enough.
Combining nest removal with trapping, feeder modifications, and physical exclusion gives you the best chance of meaningfully reducing house sparrow numbers on your property. No single method eliminates them entirely, especially in urban and suburban areas where the surrounding population is large, but a sustained multi-pronged approach makes a real difference for native birds.