Crickets end up in basements for one reason: the environment is exactly what they’re looking for. Cool, dark, and damp, a basement mimics the conditions under rocks and logs where crickets naturally live. Getting rid of them requires a combination of trapping, reducing moisture, sealing entry points, and removing their food sources. Here’s how to handle each step.
Identify What You’re Dealing With
The two most common basement invaders are camel crickets and house crickets, and they behave differently. Camel crickets (also called cave crickets) are the ones you’re more likely to find in a basement. They have a humpbacked shape, long spider-like legs, and no wings. They don’t chirp. If you’re hearing chirping, you probably have field crickets or house crickets instead.
This distinction matters because camel crickets are drawn almost exclusively to moisture and darkness, while house crickets are broader scavengers attracted to food, warmth, and light. Both can be eliminated with similar methods, but knowing which species you have helps you target the root cause. If they’re camel crickets, moisture control is your top priority. If they’re house crickets, food sources and entry points matter just as much.
Cut Off Their Moisture Supply
Camel crickets gravitate toward the dampest corners of your basement: near floor drains, water heaters, sump pumps, and anywhere condensation collects on pipes or walls. Reducing humidity is the single most effective long-term fix.
Run a dehumidifier and aim to keep basement humidity below 60%. Fix any leaking pipes, even slow drips. If your basement has poor drainage or water seeps in after rain, address that with exterior grading or interior waterproofing. Improve airflow by opening vents or running a fan in stagnant corners. Without moisture, your basement stops being attractive habitat, and crickets will look elsewhere.
Set Glue Traps Along Walls and Corners
Sticky glue traps are the fastest way to start reducing an active population. Place them flat along walls, in corners, near floor drains, and under furniture or storage shelves where crickets travel. Crickets tend to move along edges rather than across open floor space, so wall placement is key.
Five or six traps spread across a standard basement can catch two to three crickets per trap within a few days. Leave the traps fully open and flat rather than folded into a tent shape for better results. Check and replace them weekly. Glue traps also serve as a monitoring tool: if you’re still catching crickets after a few weeks of other interventions, you haven’t fully addressed the entry points or moisture problem.
Apply Dust in Cracks and Crevices
Diatomaceous earth and boric acid both work against crickets. These fine powders cling to an insect’s body as it walks through them, then are ingested when the cricket grooms itself. Both remain effective almost indefinitely as long as they stay dry, making them well suited for basement use.
The key to application is using very little. You want a barely visible dusting, not a pile. Crickets (and other insects) will walk around heavy accumulations the same way you’d avoid trudging through a snowdrift. Use a bulb duster or bellows-style hand duster to puff small amounts into cracks along baseboards, the gap where walls meet the floor, around pipe penetrations, and inside any openings where wiring or plumbing enters the wall. Don’t apply these powders on surfaces where food is prepared or where pets eat, and keep them out of electronics.
Seal Entry Points
Insects can squeeze through gaps as small as 1/16 of an inch. Focus on the spots where the outside world connects to your basement:
- Foundation cracks: Even hairline cracks in poured concrete or block walls are wide enough. Fill them with hydraulic cement or masonry caulk.
- Utility penetrations: Seal gaps around pipes, wires, outdoor faucets, gas meters, dryer vents, and cable lines where they pass through the foundation. Use caulk for small gaps and expanding foam for larger ones.
- Window wells and frames: Check basement window frames for deteriorated weatherstripping or crumbling caulk. Replace as needed.
- Door sweeps: If your basement has an exterior door, install a tight-fitting door sweep. Pay special attention to the bottom corners, which are the most common entry points for insects.
This step takes the most effort upfront but provides the most lasting results. Once crickets can’t get in, you only need to deal with the ones already inside.
Remove Food Sources and Hiding Spots
Crickets are scavengers with a surprisingly varied diet. House crickets feed on pet food, houseplants, cardboard, and fabrics including cotton, silk, wool, and linen. They prefer fabric that’s been soiled by food or perspiration, so stored clothing that hasn’t been laundered is especially vulnerable. Camel crickets are less destructive to fabrics but will eat paper, dead insects, and organic debris.
Store clothing and textiles in sealed plastic bins rather than cardboard boxes. Move pet food into airtight containers. Clear out piles of newspapers, cardboard, and other clutter that provide both food and hiding places. Vacuum up dead insects regularly, because the bodies attract not only more crickets but also ants and beetles looking for an easy meal.
Vacuum Up Active Infestations
If you’re seeing large numbers of crickets, a shop vacuum is a practical first step before traps and dust treatments have time to work. Vacuum along baseboards, behind stored items, and in dark corners. Empty the vacuum bag or canister into a sealed trash bag and dispose of it outside. This immediately reduces the population, removes dead crickets that attract other pests, and clears away egg clusters that could hatch into the next generation.
What Crickets Can Damage
A few crickets are mostly a nuisance, but larger populations cause real damage to stored belongings. House and field crickets chew irregular holes in clothing, curtains, and upholstery, with natural fibers like wool and silk being their favorites. The damage looks similar to moth damage. Camel crickets are less likely to eat fabric but will chew through paper documents and cardboard storage boxes.
Beyond physical damage, large cricket infestations leave droppings that stain surfaces, and the dead bodies attract secondary pests. Addressing the problem early, before it scales up, saves you from dealing with a cascade of pest issues down the line.