Spotted lanternfly control works best when you match your approach to the insect’s life stage, which shifts throughout the year. From scraping egg masses in winter to trapping nymphs in summer and managing host trees, a combination of methods is far more effective than any single tactic. Here’s what actually works and when to do it.
Know What You’re Looking For
Spotted lanternflies produce one generation per year and move through distinct stages that each look different. Eggs appear on outdoor surfaces from September through June. Freshly laid egg masses are coated in a white, putty-like substance that turns pinkish, then brown as months pass. By late winter, they look like cracked, grayish-tan smears of mud on tree trunks, rocks, fences, or outdoor equipment. Each mass is roughly one inch long and holds 30 to 60 eggs.
Nymphs hatch starting in May. The early stages (first through third instar) are small, black with white spots, and sometimes mistaken for ticks. By the fourth instar, they shift to a striking red with white spots and grow to about three-quarters of an inch. Adults emerge by midsummer: roughly one inch long with pinkish-tan, black-spotted forewings. When they fly or flash their wings, you’ll see the bright red hindwings that make them unmistakable. Mating begins in late August, and females lay eggs from September until the first hard freeze.
Scraping Egg Masses in Winter and Spring
The easiest time to reduce next year’s population is winter through early spring, before eggs hatch in May. Females lay on nearly any flat outdoor surface, so check tree trunks, branches, rocks, firewood stacks, patio furniture, trailers, and vehicle wheel wells. A plastic card or paint scraper works well. Press firmly as you scrape and you’ll hear and see the eggs pop. That physical pressure alone kills the developing nymphs inside.
After scraping, drop the eggs into a bag or container with rubbing alcohol or hand sanitizer. Let them sit in the solution permanently, then double-bag and throw the whole thing in the trash. Smashing egg masses thoroughly against a hard surface also works if you don’t have alcohol handy. Don’t climb ladders for hard-to-reach masses. Focus on what you can safely access, since even removing a portion of egg masses on your property makes a difference.
Trapping Nymphs on Trees
Once nymphs hatch in May, they climb tree trunks to feed on sap. Circle traps, a funnel-style device wrapped around the trunk, are the recommended option. You can buy them commercially or build one yourself. The funnel guides climbing nymphs upward into a collection container, which can be a plastic bag or a jar that you empty regularly.
Sticky bands are a more familiar concept, but they come with serious drawbacks. The adhesive is indiscriminate and catches pollinators, butterflies, birds, and small mammals. If you do use sticky bands, always install a wildlife barrier around them, typically a cage of hardware cloth or chicken wire that allows small insects through but blocks larger animals. Circle traps avoid this problem entirely and are just as effective.
Managing Tree of Heaven
Spotted lanternflies feed on over 70 plant species, but they strongly prefer tree of heaven (the fast-growing invasive tree with compound leaves that smells unpleasant when cut). That preference is actually useful. The trap tree method involves removing most tree of heaven on your property while leaving a few standing to concentrate the lanternflies. You then treat those remaining “trap trees” to kill the insects that gather on them.
Removing tree of heaven isn’t as simple as cutting it down. The tree reproduces aggressively by root suckers that can sprout up to 50 feet from the parent trunk, so cutting alone triggers a burst of new growth. Effective removal requires treating the stump or using a targeted herbicide approach on the root system. If you have tree of heaven on your property, controlling it is one of the highest-impact steps you can take, both for lanternfly management and because the tree itself is an aggressive invasive species.
Biological Controls: Fungi That Kill Lanternflies
Nature is already fighting spotted lanternfly to some degree. Several native fungal pathogens have been found killing lanternflies in the wild, first documented in Pennsylvania in 2017. The most studied is a naturally occurring insect-killing fungus called Beauveria bassiana. Researchers have identified at least 20 distinct strains of this fungus infecting lanternflies in Pennsylvania, and some of those wild strains outperform commercial versions.
Commercial fungal sprays containing B. bassiana are available in the U.S. In field trials, one commercial product killed 43 to 48 percent of nymphs and adults on infested trees in a public park. That’s a meaningful reduction, though not a standalone solution. Lab studies found that wild-collected strains from Pennsylvania produced over 15 times more spores on infected lanternflies than the commercial strain, meaning they spread more effectively from insect to insect. This is a promising sign for long-term population suppression, though these wild strains aren’t yet packaged as consumer products.
One caveat: these fungi aren’t perfectly selective. Researchers recovered the same fungal strains from six non-target insect species, including yellowjacket wasps. Fungal biocontrol is lower-risk than broad-spectrum chemical sprays, but it’s not zero-risk to other insects.
Chemical Treatment Options
For heavy infestations, especially on high-value trees like grapevines, fruit trees, or ornamental hardwoods, insecticide treatment may be necessary. Two main approaches exist: contact sprays that kill lanternflies on the surface of the plant, and systemic treatments that are absorbed into the tree and kill insects as they feed on sap.
Systemic treatments are effective because lanternflies are sap feeders, so the insecticide reaches them through their food source. However, systemic products pose a real risk to pollinators if the treated tree blooms while the chemical is still active. If you’re treating a flowering tree, timing matters. Apply systemics well before or after the bloom period so the compound doesn’t end up in pollen or nectar. Contact sprays are more immediate but need reapplication and only kill what they touch.
For homeowners, ready-to-use products labeled for lanternfly are available at garden centers. Read the label carefully for application rates and timing. For large properties, orchards, or vineyards, professional applicators can target treatments more precisely and reduce the amount of chemical used overall.
Reporting and Quarantine Compliance
If you spot lanternflies outside a known infestation zone, reporting it helps track the spread. Pennsylvania maintains a hotline (1-888-4BAD-FLY) and an online reporting tool. Most affected states have similar systems.
If you live or work in a quarantine area, inspect vehicles, trailers, and any outdoor items before moving them. Lanternflies and their egg masses hitchhike easily on cars, shipping containers, firewood, and landscaping materials. State agriculture departments provide inspection checklists specifically for this purpose. A quick walk-around before you leave a quarantine zone can prevent establishing a new population miles away.
Putting It All Together
Effective control follows the calendar. From November through April, focus on finding and destroying egg masses. In May and June, set up circle traps on trees where you’ve seen activity. Through the summer, manage tree of heaven and consider biological or chemical treatments for heavy infestations. In fall, watch for adults congregating and laying new egg masses, and start the cycle again. No single method eliminates spotted lanternfly on its own, but combining physical removal, trapping, host plant management, and targeted treatments can keep populations low enough to protect your trees and property.