A simple homemade midge repellent can be made by mixing essential oils with witch hazel in a spray bottle, using a ratio of 1 part essential oil to 10 parts witch hazel. The most effective natural option is oil of lemon eucalyptus, which contains a compound called PMD that provides roughly 3 to 6 hours of protection against biting midges. Most other essential oil sprays last only 30 minutes to 2 hours before you need to reapply.
Which Natural Ingredients Actually Work
Not all essential oils are equally effective against midges. Oil of lemon eucalyptus stands out from the pack. Its active compound, PMD, is the only plant-derived repellent registered by the EPA for biting insects, and it specifically lists no-see-ums (biting midges) on its label. At concentrations around 30 to 40 percent PMD, it can protect for 3 to 6 hours, putting it in the same ballpark as many synthetic repellents.
Bog myrtle oil is another strong option, particularly if you’re dealing with Highland midges in Scotland. Research presented at the International Conference on Urban Pests found that biting midges are 2 to 3 orders of magnitude more sensitive to bog myrtle oil than non-biting flies, and the oil was significantly repellent at concentrations as low as 0.1 percent. What makes it unusual is that it appears to be a true spatial repellent: midges actively avoid the scent rather than simply being deterred from biting once they land. That means fewer midges swarming around your face, not just fewer bites. A commercial product based on bog myrtle oil launched in Scotland in 1995, but the raw oil can also be sourced for DIY blends.
Geraniol, found in citronella and geranium oils, offers roughly 2 to 4 hours of protection at concentrations between 5 and 20 percent. Lavender oil is another common choice, though its protection window is shorter. Catnip oil has shown variable results in studies but is worth experimenting with.
A Basic Spray Recipe
You need three things: a small spray bottle, witch hazel, and your chosen essential oil. Witch hazel acts as both a carrier and a mild solvent that helps the oil disperse evenly rather than sitting in oily droplets on your skin.
The standard ratio is 1 part essential oil to 10 parts witch hazel. So for every drop of oil, add 10 drops of witch hazel. A practical batch for a 4-ounce spray bottle would be about 2 teaspoons of essential oil and a little under half a cup of witch hazel. Shake the bottle gently before each use, since the oil and witch hazel will separate over time.
For the strongest protection, use oil of lemon eucalyptus as your base oil. You can blend in a secondary oil like lavender or citronella for scent, but keep the total oil-to-witch-hazel ratio the same. If you find the mixture too strong on your skin, you can add a small amount of distilled water, though this will dilute the active ingredients and shorten your protection window.
How Often to Reapply
This is the biggest limitation of homemade repellents. Essential oils evaporate quickly, especially in heat, wind, or when you’re sweating. A lemon eucalyptus blend can hold up for 3 to 6 hours in mild conditions, but most single-oil sprays protect for somewhere between 30 minutes and 2 hours before they lose effectiveness.
Plan to reapply every 1 to 2 hours as a baseline. If you’re hiking, sweating heavily, or caught in a breeze, reapply more often. Carrying a small bottle in a pocket makes this practical. Unlike synthetic repellents where one application can last a full day outdoors, homemade sprays require consistent attention to maintain their protective effect.
Essential Oil Safety Around Pets
If you’re mixing repellent at home and you have dogs or cats, some common essential oils pose real risks. Tea tree oil is the most frequently reported cause of essential oil poisoning in pets. Eucalyptus oil (distinct from oil of lemon eucalyptus, which contains refined PMD) can trigger seizures in animals. Pennyroyal, sometimes suggested in old folk repellent recipes, is both hepatotoxic and seizure-inducing in pets.
Other oils to keep away from animals include birch, cedar, wintergreen, cinnamon, and wormwood. Birch and wintergreen contain high levels of methyl salicylate, essentially a form of aspirin, which can cause aspirin poisoning in dogs and cats even from skin contact. Store your homemade spray where pets can’t reach it, and avoid applying it in areas where a pet might lick your skin.
Pairing Repellent With Physical Barriers
Midges are tiny, and no repellent is perfect. A head net is one of the most reliable defenses, but the mesh needs to be fine enough to actually stop them. Standard mosquito netting won’t work. Look for mesh rated at 600 holes per square inch or higher. A rating around 1,250 is a good sweet spot: fine enough to block midges while still letting you breathe and see comfortably. Mesh at 3,000 holes per square inch will stop everything but noticeably reduces airflow and visibility.
Light-colored, long-sleeved clothing helps too, since midges are attracted to dark colors and need exposed skin to bite. Tucking trousers into socks and wearing a buff or neck gaiter closes off the gaps midges exploit. Combining a homemade spray on exposed skin with physical barriers on the rest of your body gives you layered protection, compensating for the shorter duration of natural repellents by reducing the skin area that needs coverage in the first place.
When Homemade Isn’t Enough
In heavy midge territory, particularly Scottish Highlands from late May through September, or coastal marshes with dense no-see-um populations, even well-made DIY sprays may not keep up. If you’re getting overwhelmed despite reapplying frequently, commercial products containing 20 percent or higher picaridin or PMD are the next step up. Both are specifically effective against biting midges and offer longer-lasting protection without the oily feel of DEET. Think of your homemade spray as a solid first line for moderate exposure, with a commercial backup for peak midge conditions.