A Conibear 220 is the standard choice for trapping groundhogs. This body-gripping trap, with a jaw spread of about 7 inches, delivers a quick kill and is widely considered the most effective tool for removing problem groundhogs from properties where they’re causing damage to foundations, gardens, or pastures. Getting results depends on choosing the right size, placing the trap correctly, and following your state’s regulations for land sets.
Which Trap Size Works Best
The Conibear 220 (also called a #220 body-gripping trap) is the go-to size for groundhogs. It has roughly a 7-inch jaw spread, which matches the body diameter of an adult groundhog well enough to strike across the neck or chest for a fast, humane dispatch. Smaller traps like the #160 can work on juvenile groundhogs but often lack the power and opening size to reliably handle full-grown adults, which can weigh 8 to 14 pounds by late summer.
The larger #330, with a jaw spread around 10 inches, is overkill for groundhogs and creates more risk of catching non-target animals. It’s also harder to set and heavier to transport. The 220 hits the sweet spot: powerful enough for a clean kill, sized correctly for the animal, and manageable to carry and position at a burrow entrance.
Placement at the Burrow
The most effective placement is directly over an active burrow entrance. Groundhogs are creatures of habit. They use the same holes repeatedly, and a trap set flush against the opening catches them as they exit or return. Look for burrows with fresh dirt, worn edges, and nearby droppings or chewed vegetation. Abandoned burrows have cobwebs, leaf litter, or grass growing across the opening.
Position the trap so the jaws form a vertical plane across the hole. You can stake the trap into the ground on either side of the entrance using rebar, wooden stakes, or the chain and stake that come with many models. Adding guide sticks (small branches or pieces of wood angled inward toward the trap) on each side funnels the groundhog through the trigger rather than around it. Some trappers also place a bit of loose dirt or grass over the trap springs to make the setup look more natural, though groundhogs are less trap-shy than many furbearers.
If the burrow has multiple entrances, and most do, you can either set traps at each active hole or block the secondary entrances with packed dirt or rocks and concentrate your trap at the main opening. The main entrance is typically the largest one with the biggest dirt mound in front of it.
Setting the Trap Safely
A Conibear 220 has powerful double springs that can break fingers or cause serious hand injuries if they snap shut during setup. Never set one bare-handed without proper tools or experience. A dedicated body-grip trap setter, sometimes called setting tongs or a spring compression tool, lets you compress the springs with leverage rather than hand strength. These tools are inexpensive (typically under $20) and compatible with multiple trap sizes from #110 up to #330.
To set the trap, compress both springs using the tool, fold the jaws open into a square shape, and engage the safety hooks or clips that hold the springs in the compressed position while you position the trigger mechanism. Most 220 traps have a dog (a small notch or latch) that holds the jaws open once the trigger wire is positioned correctly. Only remove the safety clips after the trap is fully in place at the burrow and your hands are clear of the jaw path.
Carry set traps by the springs, not the jaws. When transporting them unset, keep the safety hooks engaged. If you need to release a set trap without firing it, use the setting tool to recompress the springs before reaching near the trigger.
Legal Requirements Vary by State
Body-gripping trap regulations differ significantly from state to state, and some states restrict or ban their use on land entirely. Before purchasing or setting a Conibear trap, check your state wildlife agency’s current trapping regulations. Several common restrictions apply in many jurisdictions.
In New York, for example, body-gripping traps larger than 7.5 inches (measured across the inside of the jaw frame) are prohibited on land sets altogether. Traps between 5.5 and 7.5 inches set with bait must follow specific container or elevation rules designed to prevent pets and non-target wildlife from entering the trap. Land-set body-gripping traps also cannot be placed within 100 feet of a house, school, playground, or church without permission from the landowner. All traps must be labeled with the trapper’s name and address or their state identification number.
Many states require a trapping license even for nuisance animal removal on your own property, while others offer exemptions for landowners dealing with property damage. Some states have specific seasons for trapping, and a few require you to use a licensed nuisance wildlife control operator instead of handling it yourself. A quick call to your state’s fish and wildlife department will clarify what’s legal in your area.
Conibear vs. Cage Traps for Groundhogs
Cage traps (sometimes called box traps or live traps) capture the groundhog alive inside a wire enclosure. They’re more forgiving of imperfect placement and eliminate any risk of injuring pets or children since the animal is contained rather than killed on contact. However, they come with their own complications. A trapped groundhog is stressed, can injure itself inside the cage, and you then face the problem of what to do with it. Most states prohibit relocating trapped wildlife because it spreads disease, so a live-trapped groundhog often has to be euthanized anyway.
Conibear traps are faster, require less follow-up, and have a higher success rate per set because they don’t require the groundhog to fully enter an enclosure and trigger a door mechanism. Groundhogs are cautious around cage traps and sometimes reach in for bait without stepping on the trigger plate. A body-gripping trap at a burrow entrance removes that hesitation entirely, since the animal simply walks through it during normal activity. The tradeoff is that Conibear traps demand more care during setup and carry real risk to pets, children, or non-target wildlife if placed carelessly. In suburban areas with dogs, cats, or foot traffic nearby, a cage trap is the safer choice despite its lower efficiency.
Tips for Better Results
Check your traps at least once every 24 hours. Most states require this by law, and it’s important for confirming a catch, resetting a sprung trap, or removing a non-target animal quickly. Early morning checks work well since groundhogs are most active in the first few hours after sunrise.
Groundhogs are most vulnerable in spring and early summer when they’re actively foraging and moving between burrows. By late fall, they enter hibernation and trapping becomes pointless until they emerge again, typically in February or March depending on your region.
If you’re setting the trap at a burrow, bait is usually unnecessary. The groundhog’s own travel pattern does the work. For sets away from burrows, like along a fence line or garden edge, a small amount of fresh fruit (apple slices or cantaloupe) placed behind the trap can draw the animal through. Just be aware that baited sets trigger additional legal requirements in many states, including container rules or minimum height restrictions to protect non-target animals.
Wear gloves when handling traps and dispatched animals. Groundhogs can carry fleas and ticks, and while the risk of disease transmission from handling is low, it’s an easy precaution. Dispose of carcasses according to local guidelines, which typically means burial, bagging for trash pickup, or composting away from water sources.